82
Measure 1/2” in from each end, center punch, drill and then tap 
the piece for a 3/8”x24 tpi (threads per inch) bolt.

Now is where you will need to make a decision on how you want to mount and hold the rear fender. You 
can place this piece under the fender and bolt through the fender into the piece from the top, but 
remember this will lessen your tire to fender clearance by 1/4”. You could place this on top of the fender 
and bolt into it from under the fender, but this will reduce your clearance by the thickness of the bolt heads. 
See the dilemma?

83
Since I wanted to mount the fender as close as possible to the tire and still have 
some clearance, I chose to weld this piece to the top of the fender and then bolt 
into it. This way it will not affect the clearance at all. This may not be the easiest 
way, but I felt it was the safest way.

The best way to accomplish this and a few other things is to find a professional 
tig (heli-arc) welder in your area, which I’ll lay out later. 

84
Using the scrap 1/4” flat stock cut a couple of pieces about  
3”  long. Drill a 3/8” hole on one end about 3/4” in from the 
end and bend them about 1-1/2” from that end. Bolt them to 
the fender and slide the fender into place. You can cut off any
excess later.

Tack them into place. If you are a welder, remove the rear
wheel and finish welding them in. Otherwise, leave them
tacked for finishing later by a pro.

I’d like to mention here that you can buy a cheap mig (wire feed) welder from any of the places I mentioned 
earlier in this article. This would allow you to do much of the tack welding yourself. Be sure to practice a little 
with your scrap steel prior to touching the frame. 

When you’re done with the mock-up be sure to have everything welded by a pro with a tig welder. I took my 
mess to V&M Designs of Gardnerville, Nevada, where Dennis Buckley welded on the important stuff and 
went over some of my welds. He is one of the best welders I’ve ever had the privilege to watch.